EVO1 Installation Instructions

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 
(read fully before attempting to install)

Two people needed!

1. Establishing where you wish the speakers to be placed.

1. If positioning in a corner, stand in the corner and walk along the side wall whilst talking at volume until the echo of your voice reduces. Then walk sideways away from the side wall until the echo of your voice reduces and your voice clears. Mark the spot with a piece of sticky tape and repeat the process on the adjacent wall. Adjust the spot to balance the speaker position so that the fronts of the speakers are level with one another. Do not adjust the spot to make the speakers equidistant from one another.  
2. If positioning in an open area mark out an equidistant spot where you wish to place the speakers. 

1. Remove plinths from their packaging and thread the spikes until the bolts are flush with the surface of the plinth and tighten the nuts until finger tight.
2. Place the corner facing corner of each plinth on the piece of sticky tape either square to the outer walls or angled so that when you look down the edge of the plinth innermost to the sidewall it is in line with the apex of the corner. If placing in free space place the plinths as desired.
3. Remove all four /six cabinets from their packaging and place each cabinet on a soft & clean surface such as a double duvet.
4. Decide how you would like to arrange your cabinet configuration. Head units beneath ABM’s produces a softer sound for depth of Vinyl / Analogue. Head units above ABM’s produces a cleaner digital image. For Tri Monitors place head unit beneath both ABM's or an ABM below and one above the head unit.
5. If placing the the head units on the plinths readjust the rear spikes on the plinths so that the thread of the spike is proud of the surface of the plinth by 10mm. This will angle the head unit towards the listener.
6. Place each of the four steel locating bearings on each of the cups on one plinth.
7. Place the desired cabinet on the plinth, making sure to locate the bearings on the plinth with the cups on the cabinet. 
8. Remove the nitrile rubber balls from their packaging and have four to hand.  
9. Once the cabinet is in place, lever the front base edge of the cabinet with your index finger and thumb and one at a time remove one steel bearing and replace it with a nitrile ball. Do the same for the rear of the cabinet also. 
10. Place the steel bearings on the cups on the top of the installed cabinet and repeat the process for the upper cabinets. The assistance of another pair of hands is preferable for the positioning of cabinets. 
11. Repeat the process until all cabinets are in place.
12. Check that each active amplifier is turned off and attach power cables to both active amplifiers. 
13. Take the cables with a Speakon connector on one end and a pair of spade / fork connectors on the other.
14. Insert the speakon from this cable into the “High Level Input” on the bass amplifier.
15. Unscrew the speaker binding posts and affix each spade/fork connector to the screw down portion of the post  (red to red and black to white) tighten until softly touching the cable does not disrupt the connection made. If a problem arises attaining a good connection then wrap some sticky tape around a pair of suitable pliers and tighten carefully making sure not to damage the terminal. 
16. Repeat on both speaker towers.
17. Take the cables with a single silver speakon on one end for Dual's or for Tri's two silver speakons and a black speakon on the other end.
18. Plug the black speakon into the socket on the Head Unit next to the binding posts. Plug the silver speakon/s into socket on the ABM/s.
19. Repeat on both towers.
20. Making sure that your systems power is off insert banana terminated speaker leads into the binding posts on each Head Unit (red to red / black to white) 

For precise setting, 2 people is preferable.

Directions are when facing the amp from the rear of the tower.

Power off!

1. On both amplifiers set the “High level Gain” control knob to approximately 9 O’Clock using the brass fixing screw on the knob as a guide. Do not exceed this setting initially. 
2. On both amplifiers set the “Phase” control.The phase control basically allows the bass units to face in any direction and the motion of the drivers to match the 12" unit. If the bass drivers are facing 180 degrees from the 12" unit in other words rear facing then the phase needs to be set at 180 degrees and then all the drivers including the 12" driver are moving in uniformity to one another in other words they are in phase, which means they are in time with each other. If you face the bass units inwards facing each other as is favoured with the Tri-Monitor or facing away from each other and towards the outer walls then they are at 90 degrees from the front of the 12" driver so set the phase at 90 degrees. If the bass units are front facing then the phase needs to be at zero. Small adjustments to the phase can then be made to make sure the timing of the reflections in your listening room can match the 12" driver. This is especially important if you wish to toe the 12" cabinet and bass cabs inwards towards the listening position. This will sharpen the high and mid frequencies and provide a much deeper bass extension as you will be using the corner of the room as a horn if the bass units are rear facing.
3. The frequency contour allows you to adjust the depth of bass you wish to achieve. This is important as every listening room has different acoustics and the highs and mids will behave differently as they reflect off furniture and floors and walls so you use the frequency contour to match the bass frequency to the 12" driver helping to achieve cohesion of the bass and mids and highs. The High Level Gain then can be adjusted to match the volume of the frequencies to conclude effective cohesion by bringing the volume of both the bass mids and highs into line with one another. 
   
4. The arrangement of the cabinets. i.e. 12" cab on top of the bass unit (Duals) or 12" cab in the middle of two ABM's (Tri-Monitor) and square to the side wall produces the clearest highs and mids but the bass on the Duals can be a little weaker and less pronounced as it is not using the corner effectively as a horn. If you toe the stack in to face the listener the highs and mids are a little sharper but the bass is fuller but slightly slower as some low frequencies become trapped in the bottom of the corner it is facing. I find unconventional bass positioning especially with Tri's is with the bass units inward facing on top of 12" cabinet, put the phase at 90 degrees you'll find that this is the purist arrangement. this suits me most and involves keeping the stack square to the side wall with the plinth spikes adjusted to bring the front of the speaker stack up and the spikes screwed in through the plinth to lower the back of the speaker stack. This angles the stack toward the listener and sharpens the bass and warms the mids and highs whilst energising the image. Adhering to conventional horn physics arranging the bass units on top of the 12" cabinet you then face each of the bass units driver array/s toward the corner convention is maintained. If you toe the stack in with the Tri's with the middle bass cab facing inward and the top bass cab rear facing into the corner then your bass will deepen significantly and the mids and highs will sharpen as will the image. Finding an arrangement that suits you and the angles you like the best for each cab is a matter of trial and error as everyone listens differently. Be sure to adjust the phase to realign the driver timing based on the angles of each cabinet relative to one another and the gain to fine tune.
5. Regarding positioning of the stacks against the front wall this depends on the size of you listening room and the image clarity you can achieve. In big rooms the speakers need to be placed so that you have a 90 degree angle between you in your listening position and the speakers (either square or toed in). In smaller areas the speakers can be placed in the conventional way i.e. walk very slowly from the front wall along the side wall whilst talking and when the echo stops then walk very slowly out from the sidewall until the echo stops. Mark the position then do the same for the other stack and place the plinth with the rear corner closest to the sidewall on that mark. If you angle the bass units in a different way you'll find that the conventional speaker placement formula does not work. Therefore I find that 18" from the side and front wall is the mean position for all arrangements. But in bigger rooms 90 degrees from the listening position is ideal. Make no mistake you will be playing with the speakers to find your perfect sound for some time as everyones ears are different but once you have found it you will be fully satisfied. Please feel free to ask any questions via info@hartaudio.com and I will accommodate your set up queries as this is often a helpful service with radical design.

1. Turn your system on!
2. Turn the Bass Amplifiers on!
3. Listen and Enjoy!

1. Other than the full range preclusion, the settings can be altered for all the controls on the bass amplifier to suit your listening environment and your taste in sound and music. Just go carefully on the “High Level Gain” These are very powerful amplifiers! You should have an understanding of the sound, capability and character of these speakers before you push them to any limits.
2. To make sure you are feeding the bass drivers correctly feel the bass drivers with your hand whilst controlling the high level gain or look at them to make sure they are not over extending. If they move too violently their lifespan is reduced considerably as with all drive units.

If the bass is not working but the Bass Amplifier lights are on “Green”, check the binding post connections.

If the bass is not working and the Bass Amplifier lights are on “Red” The amplifier is using it’s protection circuit. Turn it off and make sure that all speaker cables are independent and not short circuiting.  Keep the power off for 10 minutes and turn on again.

If the bass is not working on one channel and the lights are “Green” you may have blown a bass driver. 

If the bass is not working on both channels and lights are “Green” then check your component system.